sewing, Uncategorized

Finished: Paule Top

When I came home to Australia, I realised that I needed some work clothes – because our stuff wasn’t going to be arriving for several weeks, and I didn’t know what the immediate future held for me.  I wanted something comfy but smart looking, preferably in a knit fabric.

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Pattern: Paule Top by Chez Machine

Fabric: Viscose knit from Spotlight.  I never thought that a bright yellow and black would suit me, but I like the colour a lot now!

The pattern instructions were a little hard to follow – because they’re only available in French!  I tried to figure it out using the pictures but I’m sure I probably did something wrong somewhere.  DSC_0556

This top is basically a front, a back, a waist tie and a neck band.  That’s it!  The waist tie wraps around front, back, and front again and ties in a bow.  It also looks nice tied the other way.DSC_0559

I like that this top shows off my waist and my newly strong arms but has a modest neckline and pretty shape.  It’s also really comfy!DSC_0554I’ve also made myself one in a stretch velvet, but I need to alter the neckline as the firmer knit fabric is a little chokey.  But all together, a very easy, very flattering top pattern I’ll definitely make more of in future!

sewing, Uncategorized

Almost finished: Style 1671

It’s been a little while since my last blogged project, but I have been busily sewing away and hoarding my projects until we could get good photos, which we did yesterday.  I actually have five projects to share, which I’ll post each week and hopefully then I’ll have some new ones too!DSC_0562

Pattern: Style 1671, available to purchase online (only in size 10) here

Fabric: Wool blend twill, from The Fabric StoreDSC_0571

I first saw this coat pattern watching the Great British Sewing Bee 2019 – Riccardo won Garment of the Week with this vintage coat pattern.  I began looking online and in op-shops and after a few weeks found the pattern in Canberra Antiques Centre.  They actually had a lot of vintage patterns from different decades, and I bought a couple of different things!

Initially I wanted to make this coat in the lovely English wool used on the show, but I was priced out.  The fabric would have been an OK brice but the shipping!  I couldn’t do it.DSC_0575

I say this coat is almost finished, because I haven’t added buttons yet.  I’m nervous to do it since I can never quite make them in the right spot.  I’ll work up my courage though, eventually!  It would be nice to have a button at the top to stop the wind blowing against my neck.  I also have to machine top-stitch the pockets because they’re only done by hand at this stage…

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The pattern itself is pretty simple, two front panels, two back panels and a pleat, a yoke, two collar pieces, a two-piece sleeve and facings.  I also lined this in a red bemsilk (a bit crushed from being sat on for a week).  I followed the pattern instructions for the lining and didn’t bag it out, which would have been lovely but I couldn’t quite figure out if it would work.  So the lining might be a bit short, but at least it won’t show!

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The pattern includes the belt but I also made some belt loops and sewed them on the side seams.  I don’t think it needs more loops but just in case I have two more if I change my mind!

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I didn’t do a huge amount of tailoring.  There are shoulder pads and interfacing in the collar, yoke, and front facing but no more than that.  I looked at a book on tailoring and ran away scared.  Maybe next time, but also maybe not?

It is a kind of oversized look, you can see it’s a bit big around the shoulders.  A bit like wearing your mum’s coat when you’re eleven.  I still like it!DSC_0587DSC_0597

I love my new coat ❤

 

In other news, we moved back to Australia!  We’re house hunting!  It’s all going great 🙂

pants, sewing, Uncategorized

Finished- Ginger Jeans!

I have been stalking the Ginger Jeans for years now – it seems everyone’s made a pair and fallen in love with them!  I’m not a high-waisted-jeans kind of person – they can make my tummy hurt – and I’m not a low-rise-jeans person – I don’t want to show the world my bum.  I am never comfy in skinny jeans (so far) but I liked the look of the stovepipe cut.  So when the Ginger Jeans Mid-Rise pattern came out (years ago) I bought that one.  Then I waited for years, too scared to try it!  Finally, this month I did it.

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This denim was bought in Japan last July.  It’s from one of the Tomato fabric shops in Nippori Fabric town.  I was delighted to find that they had a huge range of denim, all different weights, colours, stretchiness, and some even had designs.  I bought this grey-black with a small stretch.

The lining fabric is just some cotton (I think) I had in my stash that I made some Tania Culottes from ages ago (never blogged).  I still have them but they’re getting a bit tight!

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Let’s talk about fit.  I don’t fit any of the sizes out of the envelope – my hips are a size 8 and my waist is a size 4.  Because the fabric has a bit of stretch, I went for the middle and cut a 6.  As per the instructions, I basted them together for fitting.

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The waistband gaped a LOT, and I could hardly get them over my hips.  So, I drafted a new waistband with more curve: still gaping.  My third waistband had enough curve that it didn’t gape any more.  To help with the hips fit, all I could do was sew with a very small seam allowance at the largest point.  Now, I can do them up but can’t really put my hands in the front pockets!

Here’s the fit sitting down.  It really rides up at the front and down at the back, but I guess that’s pretty normal?  My other pants don’t do this so much.

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So the fit now is *okay*, not perfect.  I still have some gaping at the waist and it’s still really tight across my bottom.  I will have to look carefully at the pattern and make some alterations for next time.  I also have one twisty leg – must have cut it slightly off grain.

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They do look good from the back though.  And it’s a nice feeling to have jeans that are the right length!  All of my store bought jeans have to be shortened and then they don’t have that nice coloured topstitching.  These do and it’s great!

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My fly front is a bit messy but nothing you notice much at first glance.  The waistband overlaps slightly unevenly, so I installed a hook and eye to try to get the under-lapped one more hidden.

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One warning – the Mid-Rise instructions seem to have a step missing, which mucked me up for a while.  When you join the pocket lining to the denim pocket bit that shows, it doesn’t say to sew all around the edges of the denim bits.  So when I tried on my pants for the first time, the denim parts of the pockets popped out.  Whoops!

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The back pockets is where I let my freak flag fly.  I loved looking at everyone’s personalised back pocket designs and racked my brains trying to think of one for me.  I didn’t want to go the treble and bass clefs (too obvious), and a lot of other designs were too complex.  This symbol is from A Series of Unfortunate Events, and is a stylised VFD acronym and also looks like an eye with an eyebrow.  The world is quiet here.

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These work pretty well as jeans, I’m happy with them as my first try.  I’m going to try making shorts from the leftover denim (not quite enough for another pair of jeans) and that will be an opportunity to tweak the fit.

 

sewing, Uncategorized

Bikini!

I haven’t had a bikini for quite a few years now – I think I only ever had 3 in my life before now.  And since I had surgery several years ago and have a big scar on my belly button, I went off the idea of two -piece swimsuits.  But, I’ve been working out and feeling stronger and wanted a bikini again.  So I made one!

The top is Jalie 2446, view B.  It’s not the most modest or the least modest view, it’s in the middle.  It was pretty simple to make, except for the pattern instructions being almost indecipherable.  I could not believe how opaque those instructions were, steps were left out or assumed, and the instructions for the 3 different views were hard to distinguish.  I was going along happily when I realised I’d been making view C for several steps and had to rip out a whole lot. I’d appreciate ONE set of instructions for each view, instead of them being mixed together.

The bottom is my go-to underpants pattern, which is a KnitWit pattern from the 80s I have a photocopy of.  I just made the rise about an inch higher on these.

I didn’t have any swimwear elastic, so all the elastic throughout is bra strapping I had from old convertible bras and from bra-making.  I used the same elastic on the bottoms as the top.  It feels nice and sturdy.

I didn’t have a bikini clasp either, so the top needs to be put on over my head.  It works, but it is pretty inelegant!

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I do have a photo of it worn, but my students have recently figured out how Google works so I won’t show that here.  Maybe on Instagram: @cutiefulchristina

Happy Summer!

pants, sewing, Uncategorized

Sewn Guise pants!

Guise! I made some pants!

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Again, these are the Guise pants by Papercut Patterns. The fabric is some wool suiting that I bought in a little fabric shop in Sydney about four years ago.  Possibly it was Melbourne.  One of them!  It has a lovely hand and drape and the stitches really sink into the fabric.

I wrote about the wearable toile I made a couple of weeks ago here. The fit was good on those so I didn’t make any alterations on this pair!

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However, there was a problem. While the fit was good on shorts, which are light, the heavy wool long pants dragged, especially when I had my phone in my pocket.  I wore these to work one day and wasn’t satisfied with the fit.  I even put on two more belt loops at the back to try and compensate for the dragging but I had to alter them.fullsizeoutput_5e39

Because it wasn’t possible to alter the fit significantly without taking apart the entire trousers, I solved this by taking in the elastic at the back… a fair bit.  The worn photos are of the altered pants, and the detail shots below are of the pants before the alteration.

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img_08981.jpgThe pockets are lined with some China silk I’ve had a little scrap of for years and years.  It’s got butterflies on it 🙂

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So I guess I’ve got a good pair of wool work pants now that it’s summer!  Ha!